Done this swap in my 03 AUDM IS300 the other day with the help of some friends. Did the write up on the www.prime-excel.style site but also putting the info I have here.
All up the swap cost about $2.5k for me but I also had some fluids, bolts, shifter and a welder so I would expect $3k if you had to buy everything.
The parts and tools list:
Clutch and brake pedal from an IS200
Master Cylinder and hard and soft lines from IS200, Soft line and slave if you can get it otherwise the w58 slave is the same
W58 Remote shifter (aka Tripod Mount), mine was from a MK4 NA Supra
NA 2JZ Single Mass flywheel from MK4 Supra
New Flywheel and clutch pressure plate bolts
ARP JZ flywheel bolts sku 203-2802
2.5L gear oil 75-90w GL5 (Penrite ProGear is what i used)
Clutch Kit including
clutch and pressure plate
spigot bearing, auto and manual cranks are the same so spigot goes straight in
alignment tool (optional but makes life easier and normally included)
Brake fluid for clutch 1 bottle small should be fine
Loctite high strength for flywheel bolts
Loctite medium strength for clutch and driveshaft bolts
Manual leather Shifter Boot from IS200
Supra W58 rubber transmission mount
W58 slip yoke or the supra driveshaft to cut it off
30mm hole saw to drill hole for master cylinder
3mm pilot bit and 8mm drill bit for master cylinder stud holes
Access to a welder, having it with you makes test fitting the shifter much easier.
Soldering iron or crimp terminals to join some wires
Things requiring modifying or making
I reused my rear section and had a new front section made 744mm from the gearbox seal to the center carrier bolts
Soft Clutch line if you didn’t get the oem one, These are the Aeroflow fittings I used.
AF204-03 m10x1.0 to -3an hose
AF351-03 m10x1.0 male to -3an male
AF201-03 -3an female to -3an hose
200 series line teflon coat -3an 1metre minimum quantity
Transmission tunnel has to be cut and sealed
Shifter to modify needs to be moved about 60mm forward, I cut up one from my old car
Modify the auto is300 trans cross member or make a new one
Bridge Neutral switch on auto harness
Wire up reverse wires
Flywheel inspection plug, they tend to explode after living under the car for 17 years. Toyota part no. 90950-01809 on amayama
Fluid Pump bottle, makes filling the trans a breeze
Rear main seal, may as well with the box off
First things first getting the A650e out. It’s pretty straight forward.
Drain the oil, 14mm sump plug
Remove the driveshaft, can be done with the exhaust in but its easier to do it with them out. Two 14mm spanners or a spanner and a rattle gun. The center bearing are also 14mm, if you drop this first you can get a 14mm socket on the driveshaft bolts in the center.
Remove the heat exchanger hardlines. Undo the lines on the auto sump and remove the soft lines on the exchanger. I left the coolant lines on and heat exhanger mounted. If you're removing the headers this will be easier.
Remove the auto shifter. The center console and shifter surround have to come out for this. Then remove the 4 bolts holding the shifter and the linkage under the car.
Remove the auto harness plugs that you can reach, some will be easier when you drop the auto box
Undo the torque converter flex plate bolts. Remove the inspection plug, these explode so best have a spare or just some tape for now, then undo each bolt on the flex plate. Spin the engine over with a 22mm socket on the harmonic balancer.
Remove battery to take the starter out safely.
Remove the auto dip stick. There’s a 10mm bolt on the underside of the intake manifold and a clamp further down and then you should be able to pull the top half of the tube out of the bottom half that runs into the sump.
Remove Starter motor, two 14mm bolts plus the battery cable and signal.
Undo the gearbox bell housing bolts, 14mm and 17mm. There will be two long 14mm bolts on the starter motor. We found the best way to do this is support the auto trans with a jack and then undo the crossmember and lower the trans to access the top 17mm bolts. Use lots of extensions and a decent ratchet. I had the ratchet above the output shaft on the gearbox to crack them before I could use the rattle gun. Make sure you support the gearbox with a jack or two here as once the torque converter comes out of the crank it will come straight down and out.
Remove the rest of the harness plugs if you haven’t already and the gearbox should be completely free.
Install Pedals and Master Cyl
I did this the weekend before the swap to make life easier. The brake pedal mounts with a pivot and a bolt at the top. Don’t lose the plastic inserts for the top. The clutch pedal uses a M8 STD thread for the top and then the two threads from the master cylinder through the firewall which are also M8 STD. Inside the cabin there will be a cut out in the foam where the pedal/master sits. The master cylinder from a manual IS200 uses a 30mm hole for the rod to pass through. I estimated where I wanted it and marked the stud holes then I used a 30mm holesaw to drill the center. I used a file to adjust and cleanup the hole as I needed. Two people would make putting the pedal in a piece of cake or you can fuck around like I did for an hour trying to get the studs and the pedal to line up.
One thing to note I found that it was pretty much impossible to feed the hardline down with the auto in the way. It clips into the clips with the other hardlines that run along the top of the firewall. We installed mine with the box out and the motor tilted on a jack.
Install Flywheel and Clutch
Remove the auto flex plate and spacers if you haven't already, if you don’t have a rattle gun have a 2nd person hold the harmonic balancer or put a long breaker bar on it so it jams against the floor. Inspect the rear main seal and replace if you need to. I had suspected mine was leaking for a while so I got a new one for $25 to do while I had it all off.
To install the spigot find a socket that is that is the same size as the outer race and use a hammer to tap it in till it seats against the step inside the crank, you’ll hear when it seats as the sound will change. I had a local shop machine my flywheel for me it only ran me $55 and was done within the day. I also picked up new ARP flywheel bolts, these are used for 4AGE engines as well as the 1JZ and 2JZ. The kit comes with instructions and their moly fastener lube. It is recommended to put high strength loctite on the threads and a smear of the fastener lube under the head of the bolt. I ran them in with the torque mode on my rattle gun in an alternating pattern then torqued them to 70ftlb as per the ARP instructions. I couldn’t get new clutch pressure plate bolts so I re used the old ones with a dab of medium strength loctite, I torqued these down by hand in alternating pattern slowly to bring it down equally on the clutch disc to 25ftlb. Good time to make sure you installed the friction disc the correct way as well.
Before the gearbox goes in is also a good time to run the hardline down the firewall behind the engine. Having two people made this easier to guide it down as the hooked section at the end can be a pain.
To get the gearbox in I removed the headers to clear the bellhousing and left the slave cylinder off. Removing the headers is basically impossible unless you take the heat shields off the cats and remove the uni joints on the steering column, but I had a set of decatted headers I wanted to install anyway so we took the time to remove them.
Having two jacks makes this part a lot easier, jack up the front of the engine, we used a piece of wood under the engine in front of the sump just behind the harmonic balancer on the block to angle the motor down at the back. Use another jack under the W58 to lift it up. Line it all up and wiggle it once its almost all the way in to make sure the input shaft seats into the spigot. If you can't get it to seat into the spigot make sure the gap is pretty equal the whole way around and use the bolts to slowly pull it in equally.
Cut tunnel, Modify shifter and crossmember, install slave clyinder
Cut the transmission tunnel so the tripod mount of the shifter can swing all the way up without hitting anything. The cleanest way I've seen to seal this is to have the manual is200 tunnel welded in so you can keep the oem rubber boot.
The auto is300 trans cross member should only be a few mm out from the original holes with the W58 rubber mount. I used a round file to oval out the holes enough so you could put the bolts back in and mount the trans up.
Once the W58 is mounted where it will sit you can put the shifter back in the car to see how far you need to modify it. You can put the shifter surround in as a guide. It needs to be moved about 60mm forward but I had a dogleg shifter to cut up so I made a leg to suit. I tack welded the shfiter to make sure i was happy and make sure I wasn't going to be punching the dashboard.
If you haven't already you can put the slave cylinder in and build the soft line if required.
I didn’t have much to do with this part but the information was found pretty easily on the forums with a quick search.
There are two large plugs on the a650e auto loom. One of them is a 9 pin connector with two larger plugs as seen they are red in colour with black wires coming out of the connector. These need to be bridged to each to allow the starter to crank.
The red wires with the blue from the same plug need to be joined to the reverse switch on the transmission as seen on in the pictures below. I used bullet connectors on mine but solder and heatshrink is much neater.
As far as I know there are no existing driveshafts that will bolt up. You can reuse your old rear section but will need to have a new front or entire custom driveshaft fabricated. I went to a local shop with both my old driveshafts and the front section with the W58 slip yoke from the supra. He got me to measure the from the seal to the center carrier bolts which for me was 744mm. This may vary but I used my mates to test which was measured at 739mm and it worked fine, feel free to use my measurement as a guide but best to measure your own once the box is in. Also important to take the rear section as well so they can balance it as one piece.
I was lucky enough to get mine back within 1 day but shops may differ and if you opt to get a stronger 1 piece. It cost me $500 from South Coast Driveshafts in Port Kembla as they had to retube the entire front section because it is longer than both the IS300 auto and supra manual shaft.
Install the same way you took it out pretty straightforward, don't forget a touch of medium strength loctite.
Cleaning up and test drive, Happy days
Top up the oil in the transmission and grab a friend to help bleed the clutch and you should be good for a lap around the block. I threw the center console back in just to make sure it all fit and took it for a lap around the block. Staying with the auto ecu you will get a CEL but it shouldn't affect driving at all, TRC and VSC will be retained if you had those before.